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FABRIC FACTS
Bonding and laminating are processes that were popular several years ago. The
process had a lull for a few years, but is becoming popular again. Bonding and
lamination are a process by which two or more fabrics adhere to each other. In
technical terms, bonding is the adhesion of two fabrics (outer shell fabric to a tricot
backing fabric) and lamination is the adhesion of urethane foam to a fabric. Two
common methods for bonding and lamination are the wet adhesive and the flame
foam processes which pass through rollers. When the outer fabric is bonded to
form a puckered effect, it is referred to as matelasse. Bonding or lamination of
fabrics gives garments improved body and better appearance with little increase in
the quality and cost of the outer fabric. Bonding and lamination also stabilizes the
outer fabric, which inhibits it from shrinking. Bonded and laminated fabrics are
used for coats, raincoats, sportswear and children's wear.
FABRIC PROBLEMS Some manufacturers have set standards for properly bonded or laminated fabrics. Shrinkage of the outer fabric and tricot backing fabric may occur if the lamination or bonding breaks down. If the laminating or bonding process was faulty, fabric separation, peeling and unwanted puckering may result. Unlike fusing, which sometimes can be corrected when fabrics separate, bonding and lamination cannot be corrected when the fabrics separate. The urethane foam used in lamination may discolor or deteriorate. When the urethane foam is bonded to a knitted fabric or loose weave fabric and it breaks down or discolors, the outer fabric may appear to be discolored where the urethane shows through. Shrinkage of the outer fabric and tricot backing fabric may occur, if the lamination or binding breaks down.
INSPECTION Separation and puckering may occur on an old garment cleaned many times or on a new garment. Check garment areas such as the collar, hem and sleeves, where friction or abrasion may have weakened the lamination or bonding. Examine the garment for discoloration which may have resulted from a breakdown of the urethane foam. If either the bonding or lamination has weakened or discolored areas appear, inform the customer when accepting the garment that it is the manufacturer's liability The drycleaner cannot prevent faulty bonding or lamination from separating nor prevent urethane foam breakdown. Customers should be informed that problems with bonding and laminating are a manufacturing defect and most reputable manufacturers will accept responsibility.
DRYCLEANING Run for no more than five minutes in a moisture-free system to reduce the possibility of fabric separation. Solvent temperature should be no higher than 80° F. If the outer fabric or garment trimming is fragile, dryclean accordingly, short tumble. Reclaim at temperatures no higher than 140° F. SPOTTING Hold the spotting gun at least six inches from the fabric. Use limited mechanical action. Where possible, avoid dryside spotting since the bonding and lamination may be affected by dryside lubricants and solvents such as V.D.S Amylacetate.
WET CLEANING Wet clean if the outer fabric and accessories will not be affected. Use water temperature about 100°F (body temperature). Be suspicious of fabrics that might shrink.
FINISHING Limit the use of steam and moisture. The outer fabric and tricot backing may shrink. Steam and moisture may adversely affect the bonding or lamination. Do not use the hand iron when hot. Bonded and laminated fabrics usually do not require extensive finishing and common sense and judgment should be your guide.
SUMMARY Bonded fabrics appeared in garments a number of years ago and because quality control was lacking by manufacturers, consumers avoided buying bonded fabrics. Recently, there appears to be an increase in the use of bonded and laminated fabrics. Manufacturers that use proper quality controls will usually guarantee the fabrics against separation. If the outer fabric and backing fabric has not been preshrunk before bonding or lamination, bubbling or separation may occur. Limit mechanical action and, where possible, avoid the use of dryside chemicals, both of which may cause bonding or lamination separation. Before accepting bonded or laminated fabric, warn the customer of the fabric problems. The manufacturer can be held responsible if the bonding or lamination does not hold. .
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