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FABRIC FACTS
Acrylic fiber is thermoplastic, similar to polyester, but with significant differences.
All thermoplastic fibers are sensitive to heat but acrylic is more heat sensitive than
polyester. The characteristic of acrylic to shrivel at relatively low temperatures is
the basis for the manufacturer's process of bulking acrylic. Strands of acrylic yarns,
with varying degrees of heat sensitivity, are subjected to just enough heat to cause
shriveling. The different strands are selected to react differently to the heat. The
result is bulk which resembles soft woolens. Acrylic fibers can be processed into
any yarn thickness from the fine single knit to the heavier double knits. Acrylic
fiber is often blended with wool. Acrylic knitwear will be found in sweaters, dresses,
blouses, skirts and sportswear.
FABRIC PROBLEMS
Fabrics of acrylic yarns require stabilization by a heat setting process. Of all
thermoplastic fibers, the stabilizing process is most critical with acrylic fibers
because the yarns will sometimes shrink and sometimes stretch. Fabrics of acrylic
fibers have less dimensional stability (resistance to distortion) and less ability to
hold pleats than fabrics made of other thermoplastic fibers such as polyester, nylon
and acetate. Like fabrics made of other thermoplastic fibers, acrylics:
(a) form pills or balls on the fabric surface because the fiber clings tenaciously;
(b) build up static electricity when the surfaces are rubbed during drycleaning. The
build up of static electricity attracts lint and soil particles which show up as dingy
redeposition;
(c) glaze, fuse and discolor when subjected to temperatures excessive for acrylics;
(d) when acrylic yarns are knitted into a heavy loose knit construction, there is an
increase in the possibility of stretching and distortion;
(e)acrylic knit fabrics cut on the bias will distort more easily in normal wear or
subsequent drycleaning finishing;
(f) home made hand knitted sweaters using acrylic yarn are always susceptible to
distortion. It is important to identify this before blocking is attempted.
IDENTIFICATION
Some manufacturers of acrylic sweaters have, because of ignorance, resorted to
labels or hang tags which state "Do Not Dryclean." Bulky acrylic sweaters can be
identified as not being woolen by the burn test. Where there is a seam edge, snip a
small piece for a sample. Where there is no seam edge. Pick off enough nap to roll
between the fingers. Bring a lighted match to the sample. Wool will sizzle and has
an odor of burning feathers. Acrylics will melt into a black bead which is difficult to
break. Acrylic fibers are made into garments under various trade names such as
Acrilan, Creslan, Orion, and Zefran.
INSPECTION
Inspect acrylic knits when receiving them for distortion, stretching and snagging.
(Examine acrylic knitwear for stretching or distortion by lining up waist and
comparing hemline.) Also examine areas of wear for pilling, such as sleeves, collar,
waist and seat. These conditions can seldom be corrected and should be noted on
the sales slip at the time of receiving them.
DRYCLEANING
Close zippers and button acrylic knit garments before placing them in a net bag.
Classify by color and run in a soft wool load with no moisture. Run wash cycle four
minutes when drycleaning. Immediately remove from the reclaimer (no higher
than 140° F) and fold over the bar of a hanger. Do not hang acrylic knitwear by the
shoulders like other garments. Finishing may not be necessary if this procedure is
followed.
SPOTTING
Keep the steam gun between six to eight inches from acrylic knits to avoid glazing,
fusing and discoloration. Minimize mechanical action by tamping rather than
brushing to avoid snagging and chafing.
WET CLEANING
Use water at body temperature. Agitate the garment gently. When picking up a
garment saturated with water, cradle it in the hands and on the forearms to avoid
stretching. Extract lightly or lay a towel under the garment and gently roll it up. Do
not wring or twist the garment. To dry the garment, smooth it out on a flat surface
and then lay it across the bars of two hangers separated by four inches.
FINISHING
Method A (manual or automatic press): Use MINIMUM amount of steam. If steam
comes through the garment, it is too much. OVERSTEAMING will result in
stretching. DO NOT MOVE THE GARMENT while steaming. Vacuum until completely
dry before picking it up. Fold over the bar of a hanger. NEVER use head pressure.
NEVER put on a suzy or in a steam cabinet. Method B (manual press only): DO
NOT use bottom steam. Bring down head to no more than an inch from the
garment. Use a fanning motion on the head while giving the garment a minimum
amount of head steam only. Follow all other precautions as stated in Method A.
CORRECTION PROCEDURE
Stretching and distortion cannot be corrected. If acrylic knit has shrunk, it may be
corrected by placing on buck of press, steaming and gently pulling the fabric
evenly in the same direction on all areas of the garment. Pilling (tiny balls) can
sometimes be corrected by the use of a pumice stone or safety razor.
SUMMARY
Acrylic knitwear can be made to resemble cozy, bulky woolen knitwear. Unlike
woolen knitwear, which will almost always regain its shape, acrylic knitwear cannot
be corrected if it shrinks, stretches or becomes distorted. This can occur in normal
wear, in drycleaning and, especially, in finishing. Loose knits and bias cut
construction on acrylic knits increase the possibility of stretching and distortion.
Acrylic, like other thermoplastic fibers, will glaze, fuse or discolor when subjected
to heat. Acrylics are also susceptible to redeposition, pilling, wrinkling and loss of
pleats.
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