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FABRIC FACTS
Challis is one of the softest fabrics made. Its name is derived from the Anglo-
Indian word shalee which means soft. It is a lightweight fabric and, quite often,
printed with a delicate floral pattern. It can also be found in solid colors or with
bold prints. Challis may be made from spun rayon, wool, acrylics, blends and
combinations of any yarns. Challis is used for dresses, blouses, kimonos, robes,
shawls, scarves, spreads and comforters.
FABRIC PROBLEMS
The serviceability of challis is largely determined by the fiber content, dye and
print. Challis made of wool and blends of wool is susceptible to shrinkage and
felting from heat, moisture and mechanical action. Challis made of acrylic or
blends of heat sensitive fibers is susceptible to distortion from heat and
mechanical action. Both felting and fusing give the fabric a harshness of feel which
is uncharacteristic of the fabric. Pilling may occur because challis is woven from
short staple fibers. Routine finishing may also result in harshness of feel. Some
prints may bleed in the presence of moisture or in routine spotting. Bright and
vivid colors are especially susceptible to color change. When pigments are used
for printing, dye crocking may occur from the mechanical action in normal wear,
in drycleaning or in routine spotting procedures. Color loss will occur if the
adhesive binder, which holds the pigment print to fabric, is affected by drycleaning
solvent or dryside spotting.
IDENTIFICATION
Challis can be identified by the softness of the fabric. It is never heavy. If it cannot
be identified positively, process the garment along with other soft fabrics. If the
fabric is challis, check the garment for pilling, matting and felting. Also look for
color damage in the underarm, collar and sleeve areas where perspiration and
mechanical action may have affected the dye.
DRYCLEANING
Challis should be drycleaned for only 3 to 5 minutes in a dry load to prevent
felting, matting or dye loss on pigment prints. Do not run in a load in which
garments that have been prespotted with moisture have been entered. Do not
enter challis fabric in a load just after a moisture batch run. Instead, run a load of
hard fabrics right after the moisture load and then a load with challis. Add charge
soap to the load in which challis is to be run to lower the solvent relative humidity.
Challis will become harsh if the soap or soap charge is insufficient to maintain the
characteristic hand of the fabric. Do not add excessive injection soap, which usually
has a high moisture content. Do not add excessive injection soap, which usually
has a high moisture content.
SPOTTING
If challis has surface pigment print, before using dryside chemicals, test them on
an unexposed seam. Surface prints can be identified by examining the reverse side
of the fabric. The color and design of surface prints will not show on the reverse
side. Test acids and alkalis on bright or vivid colors to avoid color changes. Test
woolens before using protein formula or ammonia. When flushing with the steam
gun, use a cheesecloth under challis. If the cheesecloth picks up color, wetside
spotting will be hazardous.
WETCLEANING
Wetclean only if garment label states that the garment can be washed. Otherwise,
do not wetclean unless it is the only alternative and then only with the customer's
written permission. If after wetcleaning the fabric feels harsh, dryclean the
garment with sufficient soap charge.
FINISHING
Steam lightly. Never use head pressure. The soft surface fibers of the fabric will be
matted, resulting in a harsh feel. Use a velvet or other soft brush to remove
wrinkles and raise the surface fibers of the fabric.
SUMMARY
The degree of serviceability of challis is determined by the fiber or blends used and
by the dye or print application. The soft feel of the fabric may be adversely affected
by heat, moisture, mechanical action or head pressure in finishing. Spotting
procedures cannot be routine or dye loss and color bleeding will result. Routine
finishing may result in a harsh surface. |
