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FACTS ABOUT COLOR
In many cases, the color of the garment is the primary reason for the customer's
selection. Obviously, any change or variation in the color or fading creates an
undesirable effect. Dye crocking is the result of random loss of dye or pigment due
to abrasion or mechanical action in wear or processing. When dye crocking has
occurred, the fabric appears lighter, discolored or streaked. Dyes or pigments that
crock can transfer to other parts of the garment, or to other garments that come in
contact with the garment. Dye loss and/or dye crocking can occur in any type of
wearing apparel or household fabric or home furnishing.
EXAMINATION FOR CROCKING
Denims, corduroy, cottons, polyester and linens are fibers and fabrics that are
commonly susceptible to dye crocking. Surface prints, such as pigment, gilt or
paint are always susceptible to dye crocking. Examine the reverse side of any
suspected fabric to determine the degree of dye or print penetration. The reverse
side will be lighter to the extent that the coloring matter has not penetrated. Solid
and print fabrics susceptible to crocking should be checked at points of wear such
as seam edge, pocket, seat, collar, cuff, underarm and waist. To illustrate to the
customer how crocking has occurred in normal wear, rub a cheesecloth vigorously
on an unexposed area. The cheesecloth will pick up color while the fabric will lose
color or print. Note color problems on sales slip. Bedspreads and draperies that are
matched and coordinate with each other and with wallpaper often are pigment
dyed and printed. These fabrics require a customer release before processing,
since any degree of color loss is objectionable and often unavoidable. Customers
should be warned that staining such as paint, ink, nail polish and glue, which
requires the extensive use of lubrication and mechanical action, will cause an
unavoidable crocking and color loss on those fabrics. Hand painted prints are very
susceptible to cracking. A signed customer release should be obtained before
processing.
DRYCLEANING
Pigment prints, denims and cotton fabrics labeled only with washing instructions
should be wetcleaned and not drycleaned. To reduce incidence of crocking in
drycleaning, turn any fabric with surface dyes and prints inside out and dryclean 2-
3 minutes. Use normal heat in drying.
SPOTTING
Brushing or the use of a spatula increases the degree of dye crocking. Tamping
action with absolutely no brushing is the safest form of mechanical action, but is
not a completely safe technique either. Applying mechanical action with dryside
lubricants will generally remove more color than mechanical action used with
wetside lubricants, and must therefore be used more cautiously. Lubricants should
be left on fabric for sufficient time to soften the stain and help reduce the
mechanical action necessary for removal.
WETCLEANING
Turn fabric susceptible to crocking (see 'Drycleaning') inside out, and soak in warm
water (100? F) and a mild detergent, or use the gentle cycle of a washing machine.
FINISHING
Routine procedure, depending on fabric.
SUMMARY
Dye crocking is the result of color loss by mechanical action, friction and abrasion.
Fabric color or design (print) that is lighter on the reverse side is likely a surface
dye or pigment print. These dyes and prints, when used on fabrics (e.g., linens,
cottons, polyester and corduroy) are susceptible to dye crocking. In normal wear,
drycleaning, spotting or wetcleaning, such fabrics will crock at points of abrasion
and appear lighter, dulled, streaked and faded. Attempted stain removal on such
stains requires extensive mechanical action. Dryside lubricants and detergents
must especially be curtailed to prevent crocking. The mechanical action in
drycleaning and wetcleaning must be reduced. |
