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FABRIC FACTS
The casual trend has produced a resurgence of corduroy. Sales of corduroy have
increased and caught the appeal of fashion conscious men and women. Corduroy is
a plush cut pile fabric, typically cotton and sometimes with a little spandex added.
Corduroy has ribs called wales. The width of these ribs range from fine pin-wale to
wide-wale. The fabric name has French roots; "corduroi" means cloth of the king. It
was named in the 1600s when several in the French royal house wore it. Corduroy
is popular as casual wear, particularly pants, skirts and jackets. Corduroy is most
popular in blue but is sold in all colors.
FABRIC PROBLEMS
Corduroy has durable wearing qualities but dye and pile problems are common.
Dye Crocking is due to poor dye penetration. Much of the dye is left on the fabric
surface from where it will crock off due to friction and mechanical action in normal
wear, in drycleaning or in spotting. When the surface dye is removed, the color
becomes lighter. Loss or Change of Color will occur when two or more dyes are
used to achieve a color and one of these dyes is solvent soluble. Deep colors such
as reds, rust and blues are most susceptible. Matting or Flattened Pile may
result due to pile distortion. This can occur in normal wear, in spotting or in
finishing. Shine may also result in finishing. Bald Areas may result if the pile fiber
is not securely woven or anchored to the base fabric. Loss of Pile may result from
friction in normal wear or in spotting procedures.
INSPECTION
When accepting corduroy, examine the garment for dye crocking, matting and loss
of pile fibers. Be sure to look at areas subject to friction and abrasion such as cuffs,
hems, collars, sleeves and pockets. If removal of stains on the garment will require
the use of lubricants and mechanical action, obtain a written release for possible
loss of dye due to crocking. If corduroy has paint stains, they can rarely be
removed without color loss.
DRYCLEANING
Classify corduroys according to color. Light and neutral colored corduroy can be
drycleaned routinely. If the corduroy garment is trimmed with plastic, suede or
leather, the trimming will determine the load classification. Reds, purples and other
deep colored corduroy are notorious bleeders which will lose color and contaminate
with dye the solvent in which they are run. Save deep colored corduroys for the
end of the day. Run for four (4) minutes with no moisture in cool solvent (75° F to
80° F).
SPOTTING
Limit mechanical action in stain removal to avoid dye crocking, matting and loss of
pile. Dyes on corduroy fabric frequently are soluble in dryside chemicals such as
oily type paint remover and amyl acetate. Before attempting dryside stain removal
on corduroy, obtain a written customer release. When removing paint, oil and nail
polish, allow sufficient time for the lubricant to penetrate the stain. This will reduce
the amount of mechanical action necessary for stain removal. Do not work on the
reverse side of corduroy fabric. It will loosen the base of the pile and result in loss
of pile. Always brush with and not across the ribs or wales. Brush in the direction
that produces the smoothest appearance. If the pile becomes matted in wetside
spotting, tumble the garment in a cool reclaimer to restore the pile or reclean.
Wetside chemicals should be tested on an unexposed seam to determine color
safety.
WETCLEANING
Corduroy should be wetcleaned with limited mechanical action, especially on deep
colors. Use a mild lubricant with a low alkali or neutral pH. Dry in a warm tumbler
(at 110° F) and remove when damp or 90% dry if tumbler is regulated to fabric
moisture content. Remove when damp, stretch and smooth out wrinkles on a
hanger.
FINISHING
Head pressure should not be used in finishing corduroy except where a crease is
needed. When head pressure is used, do not lock the head. As soon as the head is
lifted, immediately steam and brush the fabric. Head pressure will result in fabric
shine and pile distortion. Brushing while steaming corduroy will raise the pile
surface. Corduroy slacks and trousers are sometimes distorted during wear. It is
noticeable in the seams. Stretching the trousers while steaming it on the buck will
usually bring it back to its original shape.
SUMMARY
Corduroy ranges from limited serviceability to fully serviceable depending on the
dye or dyes. Deep color corduroys are more likely to suffer color loss. Dye crocking
also results in color loss. It occurs because of the friction and mechanical action in
normal wear, in drycleaning and in spotting. Loss of dye from deep colored
corduroy will contaminate the solvent. In finishing, avoid using the head unless it is
needed for a crease. Head pressure may result in flattening the pile and in fabric
shine. |
