Challis 

FABRIC FACTS

Challis is one of the softest fabrics made. Its name is derived from the Anglo-

Indian word shalee which means soft. It is a lightweight fabric and, quite often,

printed with a delicate floral pattern. It can also be found in solid colors or with

bold prints. Challis may be made from spun rayon, wool, acrylics, blends and

combinations of any yarns. Challis is used for dresses, blouses, kimonos, robes,

shawls, scarves, spreads and comforters.

FABRIC PROBLEMS

The serviceability of challis is largely determined by the fiber content, dye and

print. Challis made of wool and blends of wool is susceptible to shrinkage and

felting from heat, moisture and mechanical action. Challis made of acrylic or

blends of heat sensitive fibers is susceptible to distortion from heat and

mechanical action. Both felting and fusing give the fabric a harshness of feel which

is uncharacteristic of the fabric. Pilling may occur because challis is woven from

short staple fibers. Routine finishing may also result in harshness of feel. Some

prints may bleed in the presence of moisture or in routine spotting. Bright and

vivid colors are especially susceptible to color change. When pigments are used

for printing, dye crocking may occur from the mechanical action in normal wear,

in drycleaning or in routine spotting procedures. Color loss will occur if the

adhesive binder, which holds the pigment print to fabric, is affected by drycleaning

solvent or dryside spotting.

IDENTIFICATION

Challis can be identified by the softness of the fabric. It is never heavy. If it cannot

be identified positively, process the garment along with other soft fabrics. If the

fabric is challis, check the garment for pilling, matting and felting. Also look for

color damage in the underarm, collar and sleeve areas where perspiration and

mechanical action may have affected the dye.

DRYCLEANING

Challis should be drycleaned for only 3 to 5 minutes in a dry load to prevent

felting, matting or dye loss on pigment prints. Do not run in a load in which

garments that have been prespotted with moisture have been entered. Do not

enter challis fabric in a load just after a moisture batch run. Instead, run a load of

hard fabrics right after the moisture load and then a load with challis. Add charge

soap to the load in which challis is to be run to lower the solvent relative humidity.

Challis will become harsh if the soap or soap charge is insufficient to maintain the

characteristic hand of the fabric. Do not add excessive injection soap, which usually

has a high moisture content. Do not add excessive injection soap, which usually

has a high moisture content.

SPOTTING

If challis has surface pigment print, before using dryside chemicals, test them on

an unexposed seam. Surface prints can be identified by examining the reverse side

of the fabric. The color and design of surface prints will not show on the reverse

side. Test acids and alkalis on bright or vivid colors to avoid color changes. Test

woolens before using protein formula or ammonia. When flushing with the steam

gun, use a cheesecloth under challis. If the cheesecloth picks up color, wetside

spotting will be hazardous.

WETCLEANING

Wetclean only if garment label states that the garment can be washed. Otherwise,

do not wetclean unless it is the only alternative and then only with the customer's

written permission. If after wetcleaning the fabric feels harsh, dryclean the

garment with sufficient soap charge.

FINISHING

Steam lightly. Never use head pressure. The soft surface fibers of the fabric will be

matted, resulting in a harsh feel. Use a velvet or other soft brush to remove

wrinkles and raise the surface fibers of the fabric.

SUMMARY

The degree of serviceability of challis is determined by the fiber or blends used and

by the dye or print application. The soft feel of the fabric may be adversely affected

by heat, moisture, mechanical action or head pressure in finishing. Spotting

procedures cannot be routine or dye loss and color bleeding will result. Routine

finishing may result in a harsh surface.