Color loss (Dye Crocking)

FACTS ABOUT COLOR

In many cases, the color of the garment is the primary reason for the customer's

selection. Obviously, any change or variation in the color or fading creates an

undesirable effect. Dye crocking is the result of random loss of dye or pigment due

to abrasion or mechanical action in wear or processing. When dye crocking has

occurred, the fabric appears lighter, discolored or streaked. Dyes or pigments that

crock can transfer to other parts of the garment, or to other garments that come in

contact with the garment. Dye loss and/or dye crocking can occur in any type of

wearing apparel or household fabric or home furnishing.

EXAMINATION FOR CROCKING

Denims, corduroy, cottons, polyester and linens are fibers and fabrics that are

commonly susceptible to dye crocking. Surface prints, such as pigment, gilt or

paint are always susceptible to dye crocking. Examine the reverse side of any

suspected fabric to determine the degree of dye or print penetration. The reverse

side will be lighter to the extent that the coloring matter has not penetrated. Solid

and print fabrics susceptible to crocking should be checked at points of wear such

as seam edge, pocket, seat, collar, cuff, underarm and waist. To illustrate to the

customer how crocking has occurred in normal wear, rub a cheesecloth vigorously

on an unexposed area. The cheesecloth will pick up color while the fabric will lose

color or print. Note color problems on sales slip. Bedspreads and draperies that are

matched and coordinate with each other and with wallpaper often are pigment

dyed and printed. These fabrics require a customer release before processing,

since any degree of color loss is objectionable and often unavoidable. Customers

should be warned that staining such as paint, ink, nail polish and glue, which

requires the extensive use of lubrication and mechanical action, will cause an

unavoidable crocking and color loss on those fabrics. Hand painted prints are very

susceptible to cracking. A signed customer release should be obtained before

processing.

DRYCLEANING

Pigment prints, denims and cotton fabrics labeled only with washing instructions

should be wetcleaned and not drycleaned. To reduce incidence of crocking in

drycleaning, turn any fabric with surface dyes and prints inside out and dryclean 2-

3 minutes. Use normal heat in drying.

SPOTTING

Brushing or the use of a spatula increases the degree of dye crocking. Tamping

action with absolutely no brushing is the safest form of mechanical action, but is

not a completely safe technique either. Applying mechanical action with dryside

lubricants will generally remove more color than mechanical action used with

wetside lubricants, and must therefore be used more cautiously. Lubricants should

be left on fabric for sufficient time to soften the stain and help reduce the

mechanical action necessary for removal.

WETCLEANING

Turn fabric susceptible to crocking (see 'Drycleaning') inside out, and soak in warm

water (100? F) and a mild detergent, or use the gentle cycle of a washing machine.

FINISHING

Routine procedure, depending on fabric.

SUMMARY

Dye crocking is the result of color loss by mechanical action, friction and abrasion.

Fabric color or design (print) that is lighter on the reverse side is likely a surface

dye or pigment print. These dyes and prints, when used on fabrics (e.g., linens,

cottons, polyester and corduroy) are susceptible to dye crocking. In normal wear,

drycleaning, spotting or wetcleaning, such fabrics will crock at points of abrasion

and appear lighter, dulled, streaked and faded. Attempted stain removal on such

stains requires extensive mechanical action. Dryside lubricants and detergents

must especially be curtailed to prevent crocking. The mechanical action in

drycleaning and wetcleaning must be reduced.