Corduroy 

FABRIC FACTS

The casual trend has produced a resurgence of corduroy. Sales of corduroy have

increased and caught the appeal of fashion conscious men and women. Corduroy is

a plush cut pile fabric, typically cotton and sometimes with a little spandex added.

Corduroy has ribs called wales. The width of these ribs range from fine pin-wale to

wide-wale. The fabric name has French roots; "corduroi" means cloth of the king. It

was named in the 1600s when several in the French royal house wore it. Corduroy

is popular as casual wear, particularly pants, skirts and jackets. Corduroy is most

popular in blue but is sold in all colors.

FABRIC PROBLEMS

Corduroy has durable wearing qualities but dye and pile problems are common.

Dye Crocking is due to poor dye penetration. Much of the dye is left on the fabric

surface from where it will crock off due to friction and mechanical action in normal

wear, in drycleaning or in spotting. When the surface dye is removed, the color

becomes lighter. Loss or Change of Color will occur when two or more dyes are

used to achieve a color and one of these dyes is solvent soluble. Deep colors such

as reds, rust and blues are most susceptible. Matting or Flattened Pile may

result due to pile distortion. This can occur in normal wear, in spotting or in

finishing. Shine may also result in finishing. Bald Areas may result if the pile fiber

is not securely woven or anchored to the base fabric. Loss of Pile may result from

friction in normal wear or in spotting procedures.

INSPECTION

When accepting corduroy, examine the garment for dye crocking, matting and loss

of pile fibers. Be sure to look at areas subject to friction and abrasion such as cuffs,

hems, collars, sleeves and pockets. If removal of stains on the garment will require

the use of lubricants and mechanical action, obtain a written release for possible

loss of dye due to crocking. If corduroy has paint stains, they can rarely be

removed without color loss.

DRYCLEANING

Classify corduroys according to color. Light and neutral colored corduroy can be

drycleaned routinely. If the corduroy garment is trimmed with plastic, suede or

leather, the trimming will determine the load classification. Reds, purples and other

deep colored corduroy are notorious bleeders which will lose color and contaminate

with dye the solvent in which they are run. Save deep colored corduroys for the

end of the day. Run for four (4) minutes with no moisture in cool solvent (75? F to

80? F).

SPOTTING

Limit mechanical action in stain removal to avoid dye crocking, matting and loss of

pile. Dyes on corduroy fabric frequently are soluble in dryside chemicals such as

oily type paint remover and amyl acetate. Before attempting dryside stain removal

on corduroy, obtain a written customer release. When removing paint, oil and nail

polish, allow sufficient time for the lubricant to penetrate the stain. This will reduce

the amount of mechanical action necessary for stain removal. Do not work on the

reverse side of corduroy fabric. It will loosen the base of the pile and result in loss

of pile. Always brush with and not across the ribs or wales. Brush in the direction

that produces the smoothest appearance. If the pile becomes matted in wetside

spotting, tumble the garment in a cool reclaimer to restore the pile or reclean.

Wetside chemicals should be tested on an unexposed seam to determine color

safety.

WETCLEANING

Corduroy should be wetcleaned with limited mechanical action, especially on deep

colors. Use a mild lubricant with a low alkali or neutral pH. Dry in a warm tumbler

(at 110? F) and remove when damp or 90% dry if tumbler is regulated to fabric

moisture content. Remove when damp, stretch and smooth out wrinkles on a

hanger.

FINISHING

Head pressure should not be used in finishing corduroy except where a crease is

needed. When head pressure is used, do not lock the head. As soon as the head is

lifted, immediately steam and brush the fabric. Head pressure will result in fabric

shine and pile distortion. Brushing while steaming corduroy will raise the pile

surface. Corduroy slacks and trousers are sometimes distorted during wear. It is

noticeable in the seams. Stretching the trousers while steaming it on the buck will

usually bring it back to its original shape.

SUMMARY

Corduroy ranges from limited serviceability to fully serviceable depending on the

dye or dyes. Deep color corduroys are more likely to suffer color loss. Dye crocking

also results in color loss. It occurs because of the friction and mechanical action in

normal wear, in drycleaning and in spotting. Loss of dye from deep colored

corduroy will contaminate the solvent. In finishing, avoid using the head unless it is

needed for a crease. Head pressure may result in flattening the pile and in fabric

shine.